So I wanted to make a new bag.
I really liked this one from brooks brothers made by Swaine Adeney Brigg:
Based on that and from looking in Al Stohlman books I decided on all the details.
The leather used for the main part was 3-3,5mm. I bought a complete side from www.laederiet.dk I was not too happy about the quality of the hide. For the gusset I used 1-1,2 mm also from læderiet. This shoulder was much nicer that the side. I later found out that the shoulder came from italy and the side was from brazil.
The lock is from www.abbeyengland.com and the D-rings, chicago screw and buckles are from læderiet.
The tread used was white Fil Au Chinois 432.
The dye was a mixture of 90/10 brown and red brown from ROC.
I did not take that many construction pictures but here are the ones that I did take:
And the finished bag: